Toyota Tech
Click this link if you need a bolt pattern or lug question for a toyota or any other car or truck
Bolt Pattern DataBase:
Wheel Offset - Backspace Calulator
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Toyota Spring Codes
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4runner
03-09 4runner: Drivers Side, White / Red Passenger Side Blue / Red 2010+ 4runner: Drivers Side, Blue/ White Passengers Side White/ Orange 96-02 4runner Tall Coils: Drivers Side, Blue/ Blue Passengers Side, Blue, Red 96-02 4runner Regular: Drivers side, Blue/ Pink or Red, Passengers side, Blue Yellow Tundra 2007+ Tundra TRD: Drivers, Blue-Yellow Passengers, Yellow-Yellow 2007+ Tundra: Drivers, Blue-Blue Passengers, Yellow-Yellow 2000-06 Tundra Stock 4X2: Drivers: yellow-white, Passengers: blue-white 2000-06 Tundra Stock 4X4: Drivers: yellow-green, Passengers: blue-green 2000-06 Tundra TRD 4X4: Drivers: yellow-yellow, Passengers: blue-yellow 2000-06 Tundra TRD 4X2: Drivers: red-yellow, Passengers: purple-yellow FJ Cruiser 2007+ FJ Cruiser TRD: Drivers Side, White/ Purple Passengers Side, Orange/ Purple 2007+ FJ Cruiser: Drivers Side, Yellow/Green, Passengers side Gray/Green Tacoma 05-14 Regular Cab: ?? 08-14 Tacoma Base/Sport Ext/Double-SB: Drivers, Purple - White. Passengers White - Orange 08-14 Tacoma Sport/Base Double-LB: Yellow - Yellow. Passengers White - Yellow 05-07 Tacoma Base Ext/Double: Drivers, Pink - Pink. Passengers Green - Gray 2000-04 Tacoma TRD: Drivers, White - Red. Passengers Pink - Purple |
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Tires: What Fits, and How
All fitments are based upon No Lift, Cause lets face it, even if you have a lift, the tire still needs to fit in the wheel wells during compression.
275-70-17 or 275-70-16 on Stock Wheels: Fits, No trimming
285-70-17 or 285-75-16 on Stock Wheels: Fits, Maybe mud flap trim / removal, very minor trim, If you rub the body mount, consider moving the caster forward on your alignment.
295-70-17 or similar On stock wheels: Mud Flap Trim, Front bumper Trim, Body Mount Chop, Heat gun on Fender Liner. May need upper control arm.
305-70-17 or similar on Stock wheels; (not recommended) Mud Flap Trim, Bumper Trim, Fender Liner Removal, Body Mount Chop. Must have upper control arm. After market wheel fitment recommended for this is 0 to -12 off set
315-70-17 or similar on Stock Wheels: (not recommended) Mud Flap Trim, Bumper Trim, Fender Liner Removal, Body Mount Chop, washer bottle removal on 2010+ Must have upper control arm if stock wheels, Must have bump stop limiting up travel so it does not rub fender liners on compression. After market wheel fitment recommended for this fitment is 0 to -12 off set .
35x12.5R17 or Similar (does not fit on oem wheels) Mud Flap Trim, Bumper Trim, Fender Liner Removal, Body Mount Chop, washer bottle removal on 2010+ Must have bump stop limiting up travel or a 1" body lift so it does not rub fender liners on compression. After market wheel fitment recommended for this fitment is 0 to -12 off set .
37x12.5R17 or similar (custom applications only) Long travel, Body Lifts, SAS, 6" Lift.
275-70-17 or 275-70-16 on Stock Wheels: Fits, No trimming
285-70-17 or 285-75-16 on Stock Wheels: Fits, Maybe mud flap trim / removal, very minor trim, If you rub the body mount, consider moving the caster forward on your alignment.
295-70-17 or similar On stock wheels: Mud Flap Trim, Front bumper Trim, Body Mount Chop, Heat gun on Fender Liner. May need upper control arm.
305-70-17 or similar on Stock wheels; (not recommended) Mud Flap Trim, Bumper Trim, Fender Liner Removal, Body Mount Chop. Must have upper control arm. After market wheel fitment recommended for this is 0 to -12 off set
315-70-17 or similar on Stock Wheels: (not recommended) Mud Flap Trim, Bumper Trim, Fender Liner Removal, Body Mount Chop, washer bottle removal on 2010+ Must have upper control arm if stock wheels, Must have bump stop limiting up travel so it does not rub fender liners on compression. After market wheel fitment recommended for this fitment is 0 to -12 off set .
35x12.5R17 or Similar (does not fit on oem wheels) Mud Flap Trim, Bumper Trim, Fender Liner Removal, Body Mount Chop, washer bottle removal on 2010+ Must have bump stop limiting up travel or a 1" body lift so it does not rub fender liners on compression. After market wheel fitment recommended for this fitment is 0 to -12 off set .
37x12.5R17 or similar (custom applications only) Long travel, Body Lifts, SAS, 6" Lift.
Adding Air Bags, What fits
The basic non-lifted FJ , 4runner 03+, Sequoia 03+ Land Cruiser 1998+ kit is Airlift part no. 60809
The kit recommended for lifted applications above is the Airlift. 60744
The kit recommended for lifted applications above is the Airlift. 60744
Helpful Nuts and Bolts Sizes on 4runner 03+ and Fj cruiser
FJ CRUISER 07+ Interior Fuse Panel Help
WHY SPACERS ARE BAD!!!!!
Spacer lifts are common among Toyota owners because they achieve a look for the truck for less than $300 in parts. They are in our opinion a huge dis-service to the Toyota off road industry for a few reasons that we will lay out here. (Facts, not opinions)
Your Modern 120 series Toyota suspension has a bit less than 9" of suspension travel available in its ball joints from the factory. This travel is limited by the stock strut to 8" over all. 4.0" up and 4.0" down on most models. When you lift your truck, you are raising up the front, lets say a standard 2.5" . So now you have 6.5" up and 1.5" down. When the top spacer is added. You now have 3.5" up. as your shock is now your limiting factor, and 1.5" down as your ball joints are the limiting factor on the other side reducing over all travel from 8" down to 5.0"
3 things that this has caused:
1.) Your ball joints are your limiting devise on down travel and will wear them out or break them.
2.) your bump stop is no longer is the up travel limiting factor, your shock is and will cause your shock to fail on a large hit.
3.) the upper control arm can make contact with your strut or springs causing wear on the shock and control arms.
4.) the over extended down travel can cause your CV axles to over extend and wear faster than expected or break while flexed off road.
There is a short video below that Bilstein put out to put this in a visual for everyone as well. Here at Chitown4x4 we won't install spacer lifts as we feel they are unsafe for the truck and the passengers. Pictures below from real examples of spacer lift failures.
Your Modern 120 series Toyota suspension has a bit less than 9" of suspension travel available in its ball joints from the factory. This travel is limited by the stock strut to 8" over all. 4.0" up and 4.0" down on most models. When you lift your truck, you are raising up the front, lets say a standard 2.5" . So now you have 6.5" up and 1.5" down. When the top spacer is added. You now have 3.5" up. as your shock is now your limiting factor, and 1.5" down as your ball joints are the limiting factor on the other side reducing over all travel from 8" down to 5.0"
3 things that this has caused:
1.) Your ball joints are your limiting devise on down travel and will wear them out or break them.
2.) your bump stop is no longer is the up travel limiting factor, your shock is and will cause your shock to fail on a large hit.
3.) the upper control arm can make contact with your strut or springs causing wear on the shock and control arms.
4.) the over extended down travel can cause your CV axles to over extend and wear faster than expected or break while flexed off road.
There is a short video below that Bilstein put out to put this in a visual for everyone as well. Here at Chitown4x4 we won't install spacer lifts as we feel they are unsafe for the truck and the passengers. Pictures below from real examples of spacer lift failures.
Bilstein and OME - VS- Icon, King, Radflo, Fox, ADS etc.
Spend any amount of time on the internet these days and you will hear about how awesome some of these high end coilovers can be for your truck. It is no doubt that they offer incredible performance on and off the road. Most of our shop trucks and customers have these kits and love them. What we want to talk about today is what happens when you put 30-50k miles on your race grade suspension system vs that use on an OME or Bilstein set up.
Im making the comparison between OME/Bilstein to the rest of the racing style shocks for this reason. Fox, Radflow, ADS, King, Icon and other race style coil overs have bearings at the top and bottom eyelet and are built to be rebuild able or field serviceable. While this is all awesome for race cars and trucks that get full go overs ever 1000 miles or so, this does not work out well for us that street our trucks every day. The reason that the OME and Bilstein shocks are a great alternative is that they use OEM Style bottom bushings and OEM style top plates. These parts are wear items that can last 100k miles or more with out issue, just like the factory Toyota engineers designed. So when your Race style suspension develops a clunk or squeak at 25k miles of use, yes, you can rebuild them, but at what additional cost and do you want to deal with it? Most off road truck owners daily their trucks and having something they can install and not think about for 50k, 75k or ever 100k miles is appealing. The old adage you have to pay to play is very real here.
Im not knocking the race style suspension systems here, heck, i have them on my own trucks, they are awesome in every way and perform great. I just want you to be aware of how you use the truck, and if you are ok with rebuilding the shocks every 15k-50k miles. Keep these costs in mind and happy suspension shopping.
Im making the comparison between OME/Bilstein to the rest of the racing style shocks for this reason. Fox, Radflow, ADS, King, Icon and other race style coil overs have bearings at the top and bottom eyelet and are built to be rebuild able or field serviceable. While this is all awesome for race cars and trucks that get full go overs ever 1000 miles or so, this does not work out well for us that street our trucks every day. The reason that the OME and Bilstein shocks are a great alternative is that they use OEM Style bottom bushings and OEM style top plates. These parts are wear items that can last 100k miles or more with out issue, just like the factory Toyota engineers designed. So when your Race style suspension develops a clunk or squeak at 25k miles of use, yes, you can rebuild them, but at what additional cost and do you want to deal with it? Most off road truck owners daily their trucks and having something they can install and not think about for 50k, 75k or ever 100k miles is appealing. The old adage you have to pay to play is very real here.
Im not knocking the race style suspension systems here, heck, i have them on my own trucks, they are awesome in every way and perform great. I just want you to be aware of how you use the truck, and if you are ok with rebuilding the shocks every 15k-50k miles. Keep these costs in mind and happy suspension shopping.
